Bye-Bye Chiang Mai, Hello Phuket

CORINNE AND THE ROSE APPLES

It seemed like we were just hitting our stride in Chiang Mai and now it was time to leave. It was to time head south for the beaches of Phuket. We loved Chiang Mai - the elephants, the temples, the food and of course the people. Everyone had been very sweet and kind to us. Even when there was a break down in communication, we managed to work out an amicable Thai/Canadian solution. While Bangkok had the buzz of a big, big city, Chiang Mai was more laid back.

A MYSTERY DISH

Sometimes we didn't know what we were eating but it all tasted good. We were smart enough to pass on the fried insects offered to us from a fellow Canadian who was too full to finish her portion.

THE BIG, BIG BUS

We also saw some unbelievable things like a giant monstrosity of a tour bus. It looked like it came from the future but it ran on diesel and definitely had a last century exhaust system.

THE SUN SETS

As soon as we got off the plane in Phuket we realized we were in for some intense heat and humidity. Fortunately our hotel was only a few blocks from the ocean so we headed to Patong Beach to watch the sun go down. We dabbled our toes in the Andaman Sea looking for a little relief. We watched it grow dark as the festive Chinese New Years lights flickered on in the palm trees. When it was completely dark, we were approached by a beach vendor trying to unload sunglasses - talk about a tough sell. But it was his lucky day. I had forgotten my sunglasses and needed a pair of clip-ons. I had looked all over Bangkok for a pair but to no avail and this guy had exactly what I needed. He said he had personally "walked them in from Cambodia", whatever that means. He also wanted me to hold them up to the moon so I could see the polarized lens effect. I haggled him down from a quarter of his asking price which was probably twice as much as I should have paid but we both left the beach happy that night.

Buying Sunglasses at night

A Day of Meandering

A SURPRISING FIND

By now you've probably figure out that our travel plans are not set in stone. In fact, you might say we're pretty flexible when it comes to travelling. Today our only goal was to have coffee at "Into the Woods" and decide from there.  At the coffee shop we met a young American who had just returned from a weeklong meditation retreat in the hills outside Chiang Mai. It sounded wonderful but we had a flight out of the city in a couple of days so we put it on our "Next Time" list. Instead we chose to do what we do best - wander. If you're really good at it, it only takes a few minutes to get lost. We had moved away from the busy streets and down a quiet Soi (side lane). We were soon in our own quiet world.

THE DESERTED TEMPLE COMPLEX

We followed a long white wall to a gate that opened into a large Temple Complex. It was totally deserted except for a couple of workmen. Ok, so no one said it was closed and no one seemed to mind we were there so in we went. It had a large statue of an elephant outside one of the temples so we knew we were on the right track. The site had an ancient stupa as well as several temples bedecked with fantastic beasts and demons. 

MONKS AND DOGS

A little pack of dogs lounged about in the courtyard. Every now and then monks would appear and disappear at the doorways. We spent the afternoon walking around all the buildings then found a place to relax in the shade of the stupa.

BEASTS AND DEMONS GUARD THE BUILDINGS

We still didn't know where we were but I took a picture of a sign in Thai which we hope we can decipher later. Then it was time to return to the real world. We found a Songthaew to take us to our favourite restaurant: 92 Rachadamnoen conveniently located across the street from the central police station. I always tell the drivers to take us to the police. It seems to speed the trip.

A FEAST OF THAI FOOD

We ordered a big meal of Thai food including Corinne's favourite northern dish: Khao Soi Soup.  After finishing the iced coffee we remembered that Wat Phra Singh, the temple we saw last night, was at the end of the street. We decided to walk back that way to see the golden Buddha in daylight. The temple was surrounded by gardens that we had missed seeing the evening before. 

WORDS OF WISDOM

There was a grove of trees with words of wisdom attached to the trunks and also the monk's residences were nearby. In a secluded area, there was a special shelter that housed a giant reclining gold Buddha as well as altars for the faithful to light candles and burn incense.

THE GOLDEN RECLINING BUDDHA

While enjoying the peace and tranquility of the garden we could hear off in the distance the sound of monks chanting. We had arrived just in time for the evening service. We went into the temple and saw a large group of young monks being led by the abbot in a call and response ceremony.

THE CHANTING MONKS

It provided the perfect opportunity for us to sit with them and practice our meditation.  Half way through a stray dog wandered through the group but no one seemed too concerned. Afterwards, the sun had already started setting so we enjoyed the final golden hour out on the temple terrace. 

THE GOLDEN HOUR

Hidden Treasures

IN SEARCH OF SILVER

Corinne decided she wanted to look at silver jewelry. There is an area just south of the old city that is famous for its silver shops and artisans. We flagged down a red Songthaew and after some negotiations, got the driver to take us to a specific address of a silver shop Corinne had researched. Driving  through the old city, we passed by the temple we missed seeing the first day. Oh well, we'll catch it another day. The driver dumped us on the south side. When we asked where the silver shops were, he pointed off in a general direction and said, "There, there..." He jumped in his truck and drove away. It was obvious we weren't where we wanted to be. We were stumbling around looking for the address when an angel descended upon us. A charming lady from Ireland could see we were lost and offered help. No she didn't know where the silver shops were but said there was "...a lovely silver temple around the corner". She said it was very quiet but well worth seeing. We asked her how she navigated the confusing streets. She said she just goes back and forth on the same street because there was so much to see and she always found something interesting. She was definitely a kindred spirit. She said there was also a Sunday Walking Market in the evening that was quite interesting. We made notes and continued on to the silver temple.

THE HIDDEN SILVER TEMPLE

It was spectacular. Just as she said, the courtyard surrounding the temple was deserted but what an amazing temple. The Wat Meansan (temple) was covered with silver relief artwork panels. Each panel was finely sculpted and depicted fantastic stories and legends.

THE THREE LIFE-SIZE MONKS

Once inside, there were three of those uncanny abbot statues staring out at you, each projecting a different countenance. One was stern, one kind and one made you stare back in an attempt to discern the meaning behind his expression. Next we stopped at a nearby coffee shop and regrouped. We discovered the silver market was just down a side street so off we went again only to discover all the shops were closed on Sunday - except for one, the one that had the perfect necklace for Corinne.

THE TAPPING ARTIST

 Nearby we heard a tap, tap tap and poked our head in a doorway. A local silver artist was sitting on the floor of his studio working on a giant silver relief panel. He motioned for us to come in and see him work. He was obviously very proud of the beautiful panel he was working on. Even though there was a major language barrier, he tried to explain what he was doing. When we left his place, we realized that we walked in a circle and were outside a different gate leading to the same silver temple.

A CONVERSATION WITH A MONK

This time there was a young monk standing outside the temple and he was happy to talk to us for a while to practise his english. He explained the abbot statues, told us about his life as a young boy and his life as a monk. He told us about a cremation in the evening that would disrupt the usual meditation chanting schedule. He invited us back later for the chanting.

DALE AND THE DRAGON

We took some more photos of parts of the temple complex we had missed the first go round. By this time it was getting late so we returned to the hotel for a break then we realized the Sunday market would be that night. We hopped back into a Songtaew, back into the old city and we were dropped off across the street from the market which happened to be at the Wat we'd been trying to get to for the last 3 days.

THE GOLDEN BUDDHAS

We went into the Wat Phra Singh and saw the giant golden Buddha and all the worshippers from around the world - it was quite a mixed group. Some were praying and some were taking Buddhist instruction. Sarongs could be rented for those immodestly dressed. 

THE SUNDAY WALKING MARKET

Finally we headed into the Sunday Walking Market, an open air, gargantuan shopping fest. I didn't enjoy it as much as Corinne and was overwhelmed by the crush of the crowd. Fortunately our favourite restaurant was on a side street so we ducked inside, had a wonderful meal and watched the throngs  pass by the windows.

Day of the Elephants

BEING WITH ELEPHANTS

Elephants - are there any creatures better than elephants? Probably not. They are intelligent, powerful, sweet and incredibly gorgeous  and we were going to see them in person. We booked a tour with Patara Elephant Farms. They rescue elephants that have been mistreated or sick. Their elephants are doing so well that they are breeding and produce up to 6 new calfs each year. They will soon have over a 100 elephants under their care, an amazing record considering the Thai elephant population has been in rapid decline in the last 10 years.

CORINNE'S DREAM COME TRUE

The first thing that greeted us when we arrived at the farm was the sound of elephants trumpeting. It was startling, but in a good way. We thought maybe we would be able to pet one of the elephants in an enclosed area. No...we were allowed to walk amongst and interact with a herd of 10 animals in an open area. They were so gentle considering how huge they are and they had baby elephants - a larger 4 year old as well as a tiny 1 year old.

CORINNE'S NEW BEST FRIEND

Next we were able to bathe the elephants in a hillside stream. I don't know who enjoyed it more, us or the elephants. Finally we were asked if we wanted to ride the elephants. "Hell yes!" was the only thing that came to mind. At Patara Farms they don't use chairs on the elephants so the only way to ride them is to climb aboard, up on the neck behind the ears. We were assured that having only one rider didn't harm the elephants in anyway and that the 30 minute ride helped exercise the animals. The elephant I rode had a calf called Aruna who was full of mischief. As we rode through the hills, Aruna was constantly wandering off looking for things to play with much to the dismay of the mother who would occasionally stop and nervously search for her calf. Aruna also managed to pull down a road sign before the end of the trip. All in all, our visit to Patara Farms was exhilarating and one of the most thrilling experiences of a lifetime.

A ONCE IN A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

The North Gate Jazz Co-op

THE RED TRUCK TAXI (Sonthaew)

During that crazy first red truck taxi ride last night (it seems like weeks ago) we heard about a Jazz Club at the North Gate of the old city. Bracing ourselves for another jarring ride in the back of a red Songthaew, we checked Google Maps to find out how far. What a surprise, it was across the street from our hotel...across the street of terrifying traffic that stops for no pedestrian. Should we take a cab to go across the street? That just didn't seem right so we started walking in the general direction of the club. Another surprise, we come to a crosswalk with a traffic light - there must be only a couple of these in the entire city. We press the button and wait for the light to change. It changes, we walk. Remember me saying they don't stop for pedestrians? It doesn't matter if the light is red, it doesn't matter if there's a crosswalk - they don't stop. They do give you a running start so we scurry across the pavement, over the moat and into the old city. We find the club but the owner says we're too early. If we come back in an hour she'll guarantee us the best seat in the house.

INTO THE WOODS WE GO...

We find a nearby coffee house called "Into the Woods". It has a theme based on children stories. There are stylized trees growing out of the floor and the background music is strangely familiar. It's a Thai version of "Supercalifragilistic". We feel a little like Alice in Wonderland and the coffee is wonderful too. We make a note to come back another day. 

EVERYBODY COMES TO RICK'S

When we return to the club, the best seat (a beat-up leather couch) is awaiting us. The jazz starts playing, the beer flows and we're fascinated by the diverse crowd. Now we feel like we're in Casablanca. "Everybody Comes to Rick's". We're sweating bullets and a guy walks in wearing a heavy leather bomber jacket. A weasely guy in a crumpled panama hat is hiding in a dark corner. Beautiful Thai women sip their cocoa colas. A burnout hippie time-warps in from the sixties. Music was enjoyed and good times were had. Being a little tipsy, we began our walk home again.  It was a little quieter and the traffic less daunting. During the evening, the street in front of our hotel had been transformed into a late night food market. How convenient. Corinne struck up a conversation with one of the vendors and we were soon watching him cook us a banana pancake from the back of his motorcycle. Nothing smells better than a late night food market, especially when you've had a few drinks. 

THE KHAO KHA MOO COWGIRL  

 We walked on towards our hotel and came across the famous Khao Kha Moo Cowgirl. She was featured on Anthony Bourdain's "Parts Unknown" television show. This beautiful woman in a cowboy hat and boots spends her evenings with a meat cleaver chopping away at a table of boiled pork. She got a bit of a bad rap for being cold and distant but Corinne talked her and found her quite personable. She was even happy to pose for a photo. It was the perfect end to a memorable evening.

In Seach of Wat Phra Singh

WE WERE LED DOWN A RABBIT HOLE

A new day, a new morning and we're off to see the Buddhist temple Wat Phra Singh. After being trundled about in the red truck taxi, we arrive at our destination hot and thirsty. We search for a place to buy water and Corinne is led down a rabbit hole by a street dog dressed in a sporty sweater. We're a bit lost again so we wander the streets and find we are just in time to see a parade coming out of a different temple. It is headed by a marching band all dressed in pink followed by school children in white uniforms and orange robed monks. The temple they left is now deserted, the perfect time for us to explore.

WE EXPLORE A DESERTED TEMPLE

We enter the temple and there is a stern abbot staring at us. Corinne is taken aback. I believe she may have even made a startled sound. It turns out the abbot was actually a life size statue painted in exquisite detail. His eerie presence made more real by his look of consternation at our intrusion.

THE STARING ABBOT

Hello Chiang Mai!

IT HAS A BEAK AND WINGS

It has a beak and wings. That means it can fly right? We're flying Nok Air and it's planes have a spiffy paint job. Next stop - Chiang Mai, city of temples and elephants. Our hotel is situated just outside the north gate of the old city's ancient walls. The city is home to over 300 wats (temples) so just walking around the old city we're bound to see a few of them.

FRIED BANANA PANCAKES

Ok, it's a little crazier than we thought it would be in Chiang Mai. The old city is protected by motorcycles and taxis that circle the perimeter day and night. You take you life in your hands when you cross the traffic to get into the city. It was dark and everyone was taking red truck taxis so we jumped in the back (basically riding in a truck bed) and met some new friends. We got advice on how much to pay, where to go, what to do during our first 5 minute ride. We got off at the food market. We were overwhelmed by the crowds and car exhaust so we found a back alley where a street vendor was selling fried banana pancakes. Yum. That got us back on track. Another wild truck ride through night traffic and we were back at the hotel - our first night in Chiang Mai. Tomorrow we'll look for temples. 

Khaosan Road

CHAOS AND ROAD

I suppose, at one time, Khaosan Road was a funky, hip place to go. Maybe even a bit quaint but not anymore. It's a noisy, raucous street party and that's not a bad thing, just a different thing. I like to call it Chaos and Road. The street is closed to vehicles and has shops, bars and restaurants lining both sides. It's a place where you can eat fish or have the fish eat you. They have tanks of live minnows that gnaw away at your tired, scaly feet leaving you feeling fresh and revived. Or maybe snacking on deep fried scorpions or tarantulas are more to your taste. Henna tattoos and hair braiding abound. The bars open onto the street and hawkers are constantly trying to sell to the patrons. Their wares ranged from brass knuckles and tasers to children's toys and souvenirs. 

WE STAYED TOO LONG AT THE FAIR

We walked, talked and bar hopped. It was a hot and humid night and after a few hours we were happy to leave the party.

It's a Journey, Not a Destination

A RUSH HOUR TOUR THROUGH CHINATOWN  

We've always believed in the power of being lost. We have found some of the best things when we didn't know where the hell we were going. Today we set out for Khaosan Road, the famous mecca for backpackers. We took a cab because it was a such long way to go. We went during rush hour. Instead of being frustrated by the slow traffic (we left that to our driver) we had the chance to slowly move through the streets and see everything at a more leisurely pace. Chinatown was especially interesting with it's teeming sidewalks and chockablock stores. We couldn't have asked for a better tour of the city.

Pro Tip: If you decide to take the rush hour tour, do it in an air conditioned cab. It would be unbearable in a Tuk Tuk.

A Feeling of Vertigo

64 FLOORS STRAIGHT UP

Sometimes you have to splurge when once-in-lifetime opportunities present themselves. Such was the case with Vertigo, the rooftop restaurant in Bangkok. A high speed elevator takes you up 64 floors. Then a series of stairs at the top take you to ever higher platforms on the roof. It's best to make reservations just before sunset. You can watch the sun go down and the city light up as it gets dark. Perhaps the most unsettling aspect is the modest railing surrounding the restaurant that lets you peer over and look straight down. We were really, really high up. It's a little disconcerting to see the aircraft avoidance lights bolted next to your dining table. Before the meal, almost all the patrons whip out their cameras and cell phones to snap pictures. Who could blame them. The view is spectacular.

Lost in MBK

IT'S EASY TO GET LOST IN MBK

We always forget something at home when leaving on a trip so that gives us an opportunity to explore the local shopping. We were told to try MBK, a giant indoor market. It's easy to get lost in MBK. It contains thousands of tiny stalls configured into an endless maze on 8 levels. More than 100,000 people visit the centre every day. Electronics, fashion and food are everywhere.

FURNITURE SOLD OUTSIDE MBK

We had breakfast in the food court where they had every kind of food on the planet. You load up a special food credit card with some Bahts and have at it. We checked out the arcade and saw school kids practising their drumming and dancing skills. Corinne had a massage, I scoured the camera and computer booths. We also saw a Muay Tai boxing match being set up outside.

Jim Thompson House

WORKING WITH SILK

A narrow pathway led us along the canal past some amazing graffiti on the retaining wall. There was a giant painting of what looked like a chicken with four coloured swords piercing it's head. Hoping it wasn't a warning we continued on. We had to dodge a couple of motorcycles using the same  pathway so we turned off into a side street and came to the entrance of the Jim Thompson House.  Now a museum, the building is filled with artifacts and artwork collected by Jim Thompson, a great promoter of the modern silk trade. He was an American expat architect and his home is a lovely example east-west fusion. You are required to take a tour to go through the house and you can go through the surrounding gardens at your leisure. Corinne loved the secluded turtle pond. Jim Thompson, the one-time spy and silk entrepreneur, became somewhat of a legend after he disappeared under mysterious circumstances on a buying trip to Malaysia in 1967.

LOST IN BANGKOK

Water Taxi

A WATER TAXI AND THE MURKY, MURKY GREEN WATER

A canal runs adjacent to the hotel.  To get to it we followed a path under the Hua Chang Bridge through a maze of food vendors and street merchants. These people spend their lives living and working under the bridge. In the gloom there is a busy sit-down food stall that is so dark your eyes have to adjust to the low light. Just beyond that, the light improves and you can see the stop for the canal boats. A long water taxi belching diesel smoke slips in and passengers jump off and on it. Within a minute the boat is gone again. Corinne and I look at each other. Can we make the jump from the pier to the boat without falling in the murky, murky green water? We decide to watch the embarkations a couple more times. We choose to walk along the canal a little further.

Bangkok Breakfast

KLEENEX FOR EVERYONE! 

We had our first breakfast in Bangkok at the hotel restaurant beside the pool. Although a serene setting with waterfalls and fountains, the Sky Train whizzes overhead occasionally and at 7am the city is already hot and humid. We ordered coffee and noodles. The Khao Soy is so spicy it makes us sneeze. The restaurant has thoughtfully provided Kleenex dispensers at every table. The rich coffee perks us up and we're ready to explore.

Complicated Things

THINGS GOT COMPLICATED REAL FAST... 

A little bleary eyed, we arrived at our hotel sometime after midnight. The hotel had a tranquil centre court with pools and fountains and our room was a cool, high tech oasis. It was sleek glass and chrome. Everything, including lights, temperature and mood were remotely controlled with a central panel near the bed. When we checked the bathroom, things got complicated real fast. There was a panel above the toilet with several choices. Fortunately there was also a direct telephone line to IT support just above the control panel. The bed was heaven and the room more than we could have hoped for. We would like to thank Linda for the recommendation. Our first night in Bangkok was total bliss.

Bangkok at Night

ROOFTOP RESTAURANTS AND A NEVERENDING RUSH HOUR

To say Bangkok is a bustling town is an understatement. Even at midnight when we arrived there was a surging hum to the city. Unlike other cities where traffic congests, this place has a flow.  Hundreds of motorcycles zip in and out of  the snarl with raspy tuktuks following close behind. Any slow moving vehicle is quickly overtaken and swarmed around. It all works so nobody is too concerned about enforcing traffic laws. 

Incheon Forward

THE CURVED VIDEO SCREENS OF THE GODS OVERHEAD

The flight to Korea started with the  attendants walking up and down the aisles bowing to the passengers. The plane was essentially a flying cinema with balcony seating on a second floor of the aircraft. Timing sleep, meals and movies took some planning to prevent jet lag but all went well except for a few bouts of turbulence. Twelve pampered hours later we were walking around  the cavernous Incheon Terminal. The airport was filled with a sea of fresh young Korean faces and colossal Samsung video screens overhead. It was a quick turn around and 2 hours later we were back in the air. We touched down in Bangkok 28 hours after leaving Edmonton.

Airline Food

GRILLED FILET IN BURGUNDY SAUCE

Remember the good old days when you got an actual meal on a flight with real cutlery instead of just a bag of pretzels? Those days are back baby! Grilled filet with Burgundy sauce and chocolate cake. They even had Nanton water. It was surprising good. Asiana Airlines wins in the best food category.

Our First Leg of the Trip

...IN A GALAXY FAR, FAR AWAY

The first leg of our trip included a side trip to Portland, Oregon at no extra cost. (Fog) The fog delay wasn't the best way to start a 12,000 km trip. Oh Lord. The poor guy sitting in front of us was checking his cruise cancellation insurance. Fortunately we had 6 hour layover. We made our connection in Seattle after three subway train stops and we were on our way to Korea. The next 12 hours would be filled with inflight movies and interrupted sleep. I hate it when the flight attendants look nervous during severe turbulence.

First Post

They say preparing for a trip is part of the journey and should be enjoyed. Who are "They" and what the hell do they know? Of course I'm only speaking for myself. Corinne says she is having a lovely time getting ready.